GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
Fantastic work here. Can not wait to see this completed. It is talent like this that will ensure that T gauge keeps moving fo
rward and has a future!
rward and has a future!
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- Posts: 31
- Joined: Sat Apr 09, 2016 9:46 am
- Location: Glasgow.
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
I love this. It's so good to see people designing and modelling from scratch in this gauge. I look forward to seeing the finished model presentation.
Brilliant!!
Jim.
Brilliant!!
Jim.
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
Hi,
it`s time to update my work:
just assembled to get some fotos. The wheels of the last bogie are not magnetic up to now and so they jumped out of the track.
All parts are printed by Shapeways and they fit perfectly. The tender kernel is made of brass and at the position of each bogie I placed an isolation block.
On top the blocks have two small slots (0,8mm) to put in the springs. On top the springs are soldered with an isolated copper wire and on the bottom they are placed into the bogie. The tender has a weight of about 2,75g
it`s time to update my work:
just assembled to get some fotos. The wheels of the last bogie are not magnetic up to now and so they jumped out of the track.
All parts are printed by Shapeways and they fit perfectly. The tender kernel is made of brass and at the position of each bogie I placed an isolation block.
On top the blocks have two small slots (0,8mm) to put in the springs. On top the springs are soldered with an isolated copper wire and on the bottom they are placed into the bogie. The tender has a weight of about 2,75g
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
Very good job ! Congratulations.
I think you might have a problem with the lokomotive. I am not sure but it looks that after painting the 3D printed body still some oily spots appeared ... It is not easy to clean those 3D prints very well before painting. Sometimes it happens to my models as well so I try to make my cleaning process better and better.
Is this FUD or FXD material ?
Pawel
I think you might have a problem with the lokomotive. I am not sure but it looks that after painting the 3D printed body still some oily spots appeared ... It is not easy to clean those 3D prints very well before painting. Sometimes it happens to my models as well so I try to make my cleaning process better and better.
Is this FUD or FXD material ?
Pawel
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
I just received my final (hopefully) chassis from Shapeways.
I integrated the cylinders into the chassis and now, wheels and plungers are running in brass
BR,
Siegfried
I integrated the cylinders into the chassis and now, wheels and plungers are running in brass
BR,
Siegfried
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
Hi all,
a minor modification has been done...
and the DCX65 fits into the Loco BR01
BR,
Siegfried
a minor modification has been done...
and the DCX65 fits into the Loco BR01
BR,
Siegfried
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
Is there a vertical slot to let the wires run through....or will you be routing the wires around the vertical section and down the side of the frame???
For those who don't know what I'm talking about....there are four connecting pads on the decoder pcb that connect to the motor and track. Three have domes of solder on them.
For those who don't know what I'm talking about....there are four connecting pads on the decoder pcb that connect to the motor and track. Three have domes of solder on them.
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
The brass behinde the DCX65 is flat instead of round like the motor. I´ll use very thin enameled copper wire on the right and left side to contact motor and trailer.
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
Hi all,
this year draws to a close and that´s the best time to work on my steal loco again.
Finishing the tender I have also finised a curent collector. But the tender is too short to pass over a point.
Looking at a point, there is an electrical problem zone
In the red bordered area the wheels have contact to one track only over the lenght of 18mm.
this year draws to a close and that´s the best time to work on my steal loco again.
Finishing the tender I have also finised a curent collector. But the tender is too short to pass over a point.
Looking at a point, there is an electrical problem zone
In the red bordered area the wheels have contact to one track only over the lenght of 18mm.
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
This has been the big stumbling block for T gauge...….
It doesn't matter how complex or clever we get in the design of motive power, if the 3/4in (or 18mm) dead spot in points cannot be eliminated, then only long wheelbase power units.....let me see, like Japanese DMUs/EMUs.....will be able to pass over the currently available points.
A new design of points were promised a very long time ago......some three or four years if my memory serves me right......but nothing has matererialised.
I'm beginning to wonder if T gauge is not going to expand in popularity as I had hoped it would. The good old "chicken and egg" situation, I'm afraid!!!
It doesn't matter how complex or clever we get in the design of motive power, if the 3/4in (or 18mm) dead spot in points cannot be eliminated, then only long wheelbase power units.....let me see, like Japanese DMUs/EMUs.....will be able to pass over the currently available points.
A new design of points were promised a very long time ago......some three or four years if my memory serves me right......but nothing has matererialised.
I'm beginning to wonder if T gauge is not going to expand in popularity as I had hoped it would. The good old "chicken and egg" situation, I'm afraid!!!
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
Edit:
To pass over any point, the distance from the first current collecting leading bogie wheel to the last current collecting trailing bogie wheel has to be longer than this area.
At the original steam loco BR01 (1:1) this distance is about 20,3m and scaled down to 1:450 this distance is 45,2mm at t-gauge.
To pass over any point my current collecting tender has to be supplemented by a current collecting leading bogie.
I just finished this bogie. It is a very very big challenge to contact the wheels by ultra small and ultra thin contacts made of fine gold.
I´m working on this - but first I´ll report the status of testing the big driving wheel next week.
BR,
Siegfried
Pls, join my video channel http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvgCbsCFC2iOUI8HOvxL9Lg
To pass over any point, the distance from the first current collecting leading bogie wheel to the last current collecting trailing bogie wheel has to be longer than this area.
At the original steam loco BR01 (1:1) this distance is about 20,3m and scaled down to 1:450 this distance is 45,2mm at t-gauge.
To pass over any point my current collecting tender has to be supplemented by a current collecting leading bogie.
I just finished this bogie. It is a very very big challenge to contact the wheels by ultra small and ultra thin contacts made of fine gold.
I´m working on this - but first I´ll report the status of testing the big driving wheel next week.
BR,
Siegfried
Pls, join my video channel http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvgCbsCFC2iOUI8HOvxL9Lg
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
Hello,
I found a solution to produce the driving wheels with sealed rivets
The photo is showing:
1) I drilled a 0,95mm hole into the driving wheels for my gears with integrated axles
2) The rivets were bended in form of a semicircle with a short rectangular pin
3) The drilled driving wheel was completed by the magnet ring, stuck on a plastic axle and the bended rivet was glued in the middle
4) At last the prepared cup was imposed on the pin and also glued on the wheel and removed from the plastic axle
BR,
Siegfried
Pls, join my video channel http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvgCbsCFC2iOUI8HOvxL9Lg
I found a solution to produce the driving wheels with sealed rivets
The photo is showing:
1) I drilled a 0,95mm hole into the driving wheels for my gears with integrated axles
2) The rivets were bended in form of a semicircle with a short rectangular pin
3) The drilled driving wheel was completed by the magnet ring, stuck on a plastic axle and the bended rivet was glued in the middle
4) At last the prepared cup was imposed on the pin and also glued on the wheel and removed from the plastic axle
BR,
Siegfried
Pls, join my video channel http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvgCbsCFC2iOUI8HOvxL9Lg
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
That's some nifty and blooming accurate bending of that pin!!! The picture doesn't do the job justice......those bits are SMALL!
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
Hello,
here you can see the body of my BR01, motor, gears, driving wheels and mounting parts.
All running surfaces have been polished - result: all driving wheels are starting turning at 0,2V (!) constant DC voltage
BR,
S²
here you can see the body of my BR01, motor, gears, driving wheels and mounting parts.
All running surfaces have been polished - result: all driving wheels are starting turning at 0,2V (!) constant DC voltage
BR,
S²
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
Hello,
pls, enjoy my video of running steam wheels
BR,
Siegfried
Pls, join my video channel http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvgCbsCFC2iOUI8HOvxL9Lg
rail450
pls, enjoy my video of running steam wheels
BR,
Siegfried
Pls, join my video channel http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvgCbsCFC2iOUI8HOvxL9Lg
rail450
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
Hello,
since I´m working on my steam loco BR01 I´m missing bogie wheels with an isolated axle to build up leading bogies without a frame round it.
This morning I did an absolutely crazy job:
1) ring magnet from bogie wheel removed
2) small axle pin 0,6mm removed by using my watchmaker lathe
3) thin hole 0,75mm drilled through the wheel
4) small plastic (PEEK) axle 0,75mm with a flange 1,3mm machined
5) plastic axle with flange pressed into the wheel
6) hole 0,35mm drilled into the plastic axle
7) ring magnet put on the wheel
8) drill 0,35mm used as the new isolated axle
9) job presented in this forum
BR,
Siegfried
since I´m working on my steam loco BR01 I´m missing bogie wheels with an isolated axle to build up leading bogies without a frame round it.
This morning I did an absolutely crazy job:
1) ring magnet from bogie wheel removed
2) small axle pin 0,6mm removed by using my watchmaker lathe
3) thin hole 0,75mm drilled through the wheel
4) small plastic (PEEK) axle 0,75mm with a flange 1,3mm machined
5) plastic axle with flange pressed into the wheel
6) hole 0,35mm drilled into the plastic axle
7) ring magnet put on the wheel
8) drill 0,35mm used as the new isolated axle
9) job presented in this forum
BR,
Siegfried
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
Hello,
to do first driving tests I bulit a new leading bogie out of brass without any current collectors. Using non magnetic bogie wheels with isolated 0,35mm axles.
I machined a special screw with a pin at its end for seating the leading bogie and fixing the gear frame.
To be continued
BR,
S²
to do first driving tests I bulit a new leading bogie out of brass without any current collectors. Using non magnetic bogie wheels with isolated 0,35mm axles.
I machined a special screw with a pin at its end for seating the leading bogie and fixing the gear frame.
To be continued
BR,
S²
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- Posts: 118
- Joined: Thu Jun 04, 2015 8:35 am
- Location: Greenfield TWP, Pennsylvania (Near Scranton)
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
Your project is looking great! I am looking forward to seeing it run.
Joe.
Joe.
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
Hi all,
gluing the rivets into the steam wheels was the second-best solution only and therefore I practiced this now:
I adjusted the spring force of the spindle sleeve at my ACIERA 6 to a minimum.
The hand gear was replaced by a long rod with a balance weight at one end.
Chuck including the 0,2mm shaft drill was balanced with the weight until the shaft drill was pushed down by very very low force to the wheel.
Switching on the machine, the shaft drill was drilling the 0,2mm hole without any touch of my hands. In this way I drilled 24 wheels with only one shaft drill – no broken drill!
BR,
Siegfried
gluing the rivets into the steam wheels was the second-best solution only and therefore I practiced this now:
I adjusted the spring force of the spindle sleeve at my ACIERA 6 to a minimum.
The hand gear was replaced by a long rod with a balance weight at one end.
Chuck including the 0,2mm shaft drill was balanced with the weight until the shaft drill was pushed down by very very low force to the wheel.
Switching on the machine, the shaft drill was drilling the 0,2mm hole without any touch of my hands. In this way I drilled 24 wheels with only one shaft drill – no broken drill!
BR,
Siegfried
Re: GERMAN Schnellzuglokomotive BR01 steam loco
I placed an order of the new real spoke caps.
Finished with thermo paint aerosol spray and
after a 1 hour burn-in at 300° C the spokes
are looking fantastic!
BR,
Siegfried
Finished with thermo paint aerosol spray and
after a 1 hour burn-in at 300° C the spokes
are looking fantastic!
BR,
Siegfried