Page 7 of 7

Re: My T gauge adventure

Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 3:07 pm
by NeilM
The last one for now. Back to the US again, a 4 tub pickle car. This is a distinctive freight car from the steam era.

This has been on my shop for a few hours, and has already sold one set of 3.
For Forum - Pickle Car.jpg
Single model:
Set of 3:

No more freight cars for a bit now. What I am planning on working on next is a dummy US diesel body shell. Dummy in that it can not be powered (too small for the current range of powered chassis), but will need to be propelled by a powered boxcar or similar.

As always, if you want any of these models in a different number other that 1 or 3 then just ask and I will see what I can do. Also if you have any ideas for other rolling stock you are needing then again just ask, it may be I have already has some ideas about the same vehicle and have started planning how I would create it, in which case it may not take long to complete it.

Re: My T gauge adventure

Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2016 6:04 pm
by NeilM
I had been planning on an update, even though I do not really have anything dramatic to report, just to put some traffic on the forum which seemed all quiet again for a week or so. However in the last few days the number of posts seems to have picked up again.

That being said, what I have been up to is placing a couple of orders.

I have ordered a selection of my own models from Shapeways to build up my rolling stock collection. The only new item here is a road vehicle - I will see if this prints successfully or not before showing it here.

My other order was for electronic components. I had been developing a pulse width modulation (PWM) controller runing from an Arduino. The coding has been done for some time, but not having a motor driver it is currently just in 'test mode' varying the brightness of an LED rather that driving a loco. Hopefully when this order arrives I will be able to complete it.
The design I came up with harks back the H&M Duette controller which I have used for many years in the larger scale, i.e. a nice rotary control operating as centre off. I have built some constants into the program (values that do not normally change, but can be altered during testing). The first is the amount of revolution of the potentiometer either side of centre that is regarded as being off - the old duette has a positive click stop for off, but the one I am using does not so needs a clearer indication. Also I have a constant for the minimum voltage which will start the motor - to avoid having to turn it even more to then get something moving - which will be set on a trial and error basis. My design also has 3 other LEDS for off, left and right so that I can see what should be happening.

Hopefully I will have another update when I have received and painted my rolling stock, or have completed a working controller.

Re: My T gauge adventure

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 3:11 pm
by NeilM
Following a successful print in my latest order to Shapeways I have just added these models into my shop - 6 WW2 Kubelwagens, 3 open and 3 closed;
For T gauge forum - Kubelwagens.jpg

The batch of models I printed also included some more of the latest rolling stock that I have designed (and that are already in my shop), I plan to get these painted very soon and in place on their chassis. Once done I will get some photos uploaded.

Re: My T gauge adventure

Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:14 pm
by NeilM
I have finally got round to photographing some my rolling stock that I have painted and fitted on chassis. Two for now, with a couple more to come soon.

First up is the Nuclear Flask Wagon. I painted this with Vallejo acrylics (my paint of choice for Shapeways FUD) and used an adjustable chassis.
For Forum - Nuclear Flask Wagon.jpg
Secondly, quick trip across the atlantic and back in time for a 4 tub pickle car. I have always thought that these car were full of character when I saw them in HO or N, and am pleased that they worked out very well in T.
For Forum - Pickle Car.jpg
Finally a quick view on how I fit the adjustable chassis to these wagons. I believe that the recommended method of cutting according to the instructions is to cut the chassis from the other end. However doing this would still leave it over long for the scale length rolling stock I have designed, therefore I just cut off the long end instead. Separating and reattaching the bogie/truck works exactly the same, so it is no more difficult overall.
For Forum - Nuclear Flask Wagon Chassis.jpg

Re: My T gauge adventure

Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2017 9:28 am
by NeilM
The remainder of the photos I have taken;

The last of the rolling stock is the 40' wagontop boxcar which was a development, if my memory serves me right, by the Baltimore & Ohio railroad to try and stop the water leakage that was occuring on the then current boxcars between the roof and the top of the side panels
For Forum - Wagontop Boxcar.jpg
Final shot - this is just a TEST! This was another of those where the 3d model was partially complete when I was ready to print a batch of models, and as it was only a few pence extra to add this in it seem daft not to do so just so I could see how it was looking. Currently the model is just plain with no details at all (radiators, chimneys, cab windows, tool boxes, fuel tanks etc), also the cab roof needs raising slightly to correct the proportions. Other than that it does fit perfectly on the chassis - this is of course a dummy model, the hood being too narrow to fit the current chassis, so will need to be propelled by a powered boxcar (which I already have, just did not have it to hand for the photo.
For Forum - NW2 test.jpg

Re: My T gauge adventure

Posted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 2:32 pm
by NeilM
I have just sent another order off to Shapeways. This was an order I put together quickly whilst it would still qualify for the free postage offer for own designs only, which ended yesterday.

In the batch were various assorted items, but for T it included reprints of the Kubelwagens I had printed earlier - these were unchanged except for the simple addition of a painting handle, which I had managed to miss off first time around. I also added an in progress model of a Bedford OWB wartime coach - progressed further than last time, but still not finished!

The main thing I was keen to test were T scale 'building kits'. Why do we need kits rather than completed buildings? The only reason for this line of thinking was that I am getting dangerously close to a layout which will need a town, and I thought that it would be easier to create a whole variety of different buildings for the town centre by designing, and then mixing and matching, separate components for front walls, side walls, rear walls and roofs. I will let you know how well this actually works out when my order is delivered.

Re: My T gauge adventure

Posted: Tue May 16, 2017 4:43 pm
by NeilM
I am dangerously close to being able to show a photo of my layout, which is completed as far as having a complete loop of track. I tried to photograph this with my phone but that did not produce anything worthy of showing, so that will have to wait until I use a proper camera.

In the meantime I have made a fix to my T scale Kubelwagens, and have also added them on a sprue in readiness for the change Shapeways are planning for FUD/FXD which penalizes separate models;

Re: My T gauge adventure

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 6:02 pm
by NeilM
No activity on this thread for a while, but I am adding my thoughts about narrow gauge on T gauge track here.

There have been a few questions lately about using T gauge to represent narrow gauge in a larger scale. I answered one of these questions recently. Having also just very recently reloaded Sketchup on my laptop this got me thinking what would be feasible, in particular what could I do using the standard power chassis used unmodified, whilst still working under scale length bodies.

I considered this question for both 2ft and 3ft gauges. Although all my current 009 layout and rolling stock come under the umbrella of 'British', I have always had a liking for US narrow gauge, so that is what I am working with here.

I am working this using the sizes of the 16m, 19m, 20m, 21m and 23m chassis at 35.5mm, 40.0mm, 42.0mm, 45.0mm and 49.5mm respectively

First to look at was 2ft gauge. Using T gauge track for this the scale works out at 1:200. Very close to Zn2, so there is the possiblity here to use Z scale scenic items, vehicles etc

For this gauge I am looking to the New England 2 footer, Sand River & Rangeley Lakes etc. The boxcar that ran on the New England lines were mainly 26' and 28', with some 30' and a few 34'. Scaling out the T gauge chassis gives scales length for 19m, 20m, 21m and 23m of 26.7', 28', 30' and 33' respecively. So an almost exact tie up betwen 4 of the chassis and 4 of the regular car lengths.

These lines used some tender locos and also a number of forneys, 0-4-4 and 2-4-4. The forneys would be tiny, but should be easy enough to create as dummy 'push along' locos, hopefully it being possible to add enough weight for the to track well. There were also a number of raicars of varying lengths which could be possible, but I could not find the details I do know that I have of the actual lengths of these vehicles.

Next was 3ft gauge. Here the scale works out to 1:300. Not any current model railway scale, but this is used by wargamers so the possiblilty of obtaining vehicles here, however building probably not so much as I suspect that most of what would be offered would be bombed out to represnt a battlefield.

Here I would be looking towards Colorado and the lines that ran there. Anybody who doubts that this can be done has obviously not seen the posts from Jesse, of this parish. He has created some outstanding models in this scale. I will not be able to emulate those, but still looking to create something myself for the interest of doing so.

On these lines most boxcars were 28' or 30', however there were longer lengths up to 40'. Scaling out to 1:300 the T gauge 16m and 19m are 35.5' and 40' respectively. So the shorter cars could not be done with standard units, but longer car could therefore still possible to do.

The locos on these lines were huge for the gauge, and full of detail (again, see the models Jesse has created) so not easy to do. Magazine readers with long memories may remember Malcolm Furlow's San Juan Central where he used a pair of 0-4-0 box cab locos. Not sure if there was a prototype for these, but they did look 'sort of right'! For larger diesels (probably large enough to power) there is always a move to Alaska and the White Pass & Yukon which had a pair of diesels. Back in Colorado there were also numerous sizes of their signiature galloping geese railcars, again do not have any lengths to hand, but possible one of them would be a suitable size.

So , in summary, yes it is possible to create narrow gauge on T gauge track in both 2ft & 3ft gauges if you choose your prototype carefully. Will I model any. Well I have always liked that Colorado scenery. Also do like those New England covered bridges... However the big incentive could be that having written this I just took out a subscription to Narrw Gauge & Shortline Gazette, a US magazine I really used to like, but have not read since my then local model shop in Wakefield (now, like so many others, closed) stop receiving it.

Re: My T gauge adventure

Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 5:08 pm
by NeilM
Just a note about new models I am planning - and a request for help with information...

I am looking at creating some US tank cars. Currently looking at a 40' single dome car, 40' triple dome car, 6 dome car (special tank for carring wine), and also looking at a more modern short 'beer can' tank car - which will of course be really short in T.

The single and triple dome cars I can scale up from N gauge models I own, plus photos to ensure I do not copy overscale details

The 6 dome car will need to be scaled from photos - unless I manage to find a set of plans for free.

My request is for the beer can tank. Does anyone have an Atlas N gauge model - or a HO one? If so would you be able to measure the tank length and diameter for me? Between the 2 measurement and picking out the best photos for models for sale of ebay I should be able to scale up a model.

Re: My T gauge adventure

Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 11:12 am
by NeilM
Before looking at T scale tank cars (see previous post) I started looking at some US 3ft gauge models (1:300 or 1mm/ft on 3mm gauge track). I had intended to design some D&RGW or C&S stock cars, but as usual I ended up on a different trajectory and ended up working on an East Tennesse & Western North Carolina (Tweetsie) wooden hopper car.

The design is still not complete, needing more details to the body and also the inner shape of the hopper completing, but I have loaded it to shapeways to check that the design will be approved for printing.

For this model, unlike my other T scale ones, I have not designed it to use the adjustable chassis, but instead for the bogies to screw directly into the body. Having not done this before I will need to get the model printed nto find out how well this will work out in practice.
Tweetsie Hopper.png

Re: My T gauge adventure

Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2021 5:26 pm
by gbtrains
HI Neil
I have tried to directly place boggies underneath , you will need a puncher hole for guildance of where you will be screwing boggies in otherwise they can go wobbly on you :D

Got some coaches wihich I have done and without that punch hole for the screw ,it does not work as well due to the scale that we are on.


Re: My T gauge adventure

Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2021 9:33 am
by NeilM
I have checked the holesin the adjustable chassis and they are 1mm dia.
One way to acheive this would be just a mark under the chassis where the hole should be, which can then be drilled out with a 1mm bit in a pin chuck.
Even better, if it would work, would be a hole already made within the print.
The latter would depend on how accurately the hole would be made in the print.
Either way it would need testing if the hole in the print material would need to be the same size as in the adjustable chassis, or slightly small or larger due to the different materials. For this reason I plan on adding a test piece to the first print with differing size holes plus marking to allow me to drill holes of differing sizes, and can then see which way works out best.