TalkingTGauge.net

I've been a big proponent of the "whole-side decal" decoration method. It's not infallible, but for me it's provided the best alternative to decorate T-gauge rolling stock with any reliable level of detail. I can get good logos, numbers, lines, etc. where hand painting is far more difficult or impossible.

This weekend, after being on a modelling hiatus for some time, I decided to take on a rather quick project using this technique. I make FP7/9 shells that fit the 34mm chassis (available on Shapeways) and wanted to decorate one in CN's very attractive scheme from the 70's.

The techinque is summarized as follows.
1. Paint shell in primer/white, doing some minor sanding and cleanup as needed.
2. Paint shell in gloss white. 3. Design the decals (I use Photoscape, a free photo editing package).
4. Print on inkjet printer on clear decal stock.
5. Seal decals with dullcote and a brushed on layer of Future floor polish.
6. When dry, cut to size and apply with a liberal application of MicroSet. In the case of the FP9, the decal runs from the front cab windows to the rear of the carbody. As with decals and setting solutions... get it on straight and then be patient.. always let it totally dry out. 7. When the decals are dry and have become snug to the surface, hand paint the balance of the model. This was mainly the nose, roof, and fuel tanks, and touch-up on areas of decal that the ink chipped off. Mind these are not "perfect", but good representations that, as with any T-gauge models, look best when viewed from a few feet away. I hope this is helpful!

Brilliant!!!!

Hope you don't mind me sharing this topic with the Tips & Tricks section.....

Awesome! Did you have to clean the FUD model before applying the paint/decals? After cleaning your 3D printed model, does it become white or dull?

ConnorL wrote:Did you have to clean the FUD model before applying the paint/decals? After cleaning your 3D printed model, does it become white or dull?

I usually give the shells a scrub in hot soapy water with a stiff artists brush (1/4" or so). That removes the excess gunk, the slimy gunk that seems to be left from the manufacturing process. Then I simply let dry and I'm good to go. Never had issues with paint peeling off or anything. (I've heard of people using Bestine to clean their Shapeways items. And in one case, a fellow used a Dremel with a brush tip. I tried the latter and it worked ok, buy you have to be a bit careful because it will sand off some details.)

Once dry, I have been shooting with Mr. Surfacer from a rattle can, then sanding any areas that really need it (roof, sometimes side panels). Then I give a coat of glossy white Tamiya from a rattle can.

Did you make your own F7 body shell? I would like to get one of those. I am working on a T scale Warship Class 42, British Railways Dark green version... which I got from Shapeways.

https://www.shapeways.com/model/250042/ ... erialId=61

Grahame,

Jesse has a shapeways shop for his models, http://www.shapeways.com/shops/ccetrains

I have not yet bought any of his E of F units, but I did buy a 50' boxcar to fit on a power chassis and that was a very good model.

Thank you!!!!

This is where I get motorised chasses..

http://www.tgauge.com/section/2/va/rolling-stock

which one would be correct for the EMD F7:

https://www.shapeways.com/model/281807/ ... erialId=61

Hi Graham

In the first post of this thread, Jesse states the shell fits the 34mm powered unit.....which according to the dimension illustration on TGauge.com, is the 16m unit...the smallest one.

Ah OK..I was looking at the larger dimension of 35.5....now I see. Thanks.