GWR Steam

[martink]

I am starting work on the next layout, and the first steps include some trial builds of suitable trains - 1930s GWR locos and stock. As usual, these are quite crude little models, but they should look OK when finished and painted.

A short little video: https://youtu.be/KbVEJ7XLEi4

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[martink]

Well, I built a few more and gave them a quick-and-dirty paint job. No decals or anything, but enough to prove that my plans for the next layout are doable.

And a better video... https://youtu.be/S87D0arBNtI

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[msimister]

This linear motor thing seems to have unlimited possibilities. Terrific stuff Martin. Would it be better not to have connecting rods at all, rather than static ones?

[martink]

This linear motor thing seems to have unlimited possibilities. Terrific stuff Martin. Would it be better not to have connecting rods at all, rather than static ones?

Hmmm. Interesting point, and one I hadn't really thought about. The static ones do help when the loco is stationary (funny about that), and generally aren't too noticeable when moving. I'll have to do a few experiments the next time I make a batch. Maybe just the piston rods and crossheads, and possibly a simplified connecting rod too. Thanks - more work!

[martink]

The scenery is taking shape nicely on the new layout, so for a change of pace I thought I would get back to the rolling stock for a while. The next step here was to write a little program to let me easily generate GWR coach sides, of which I am going to need a wide variety. These first test files are copies of the old Farish N gauge models rather than any real prototype, and I will try sticking them onto some bodies soon and see how they look in real life. These are generated at 600 DPI for 35mm bodies in 1:480, and I will attempt both paper sides and decals.

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[rail450]

Hi,
which decal material and which laser printer are you using?
BR,
Siegfried

[martink]

which decal material and which laser printer are you using?

Just a common or garden inkjet, and I got the decal paper from decalpaper.com.au. I used a cruder version of the same technique for some of my Melbourne suburban trains, and even with plenty of first-timer mistakes they turned out surprisingly well.

I won't actually make the decals until I have a full set of designs to make efficient use of each page, but the quick test prints of simple paper stick-ons already look quite good. With the decals, I expect to try several techniques at the same time: printing the full decal as shown, leaving the cream sections blank and applying them to a cream-painted model, leaving both cream and brown blank and applying them to a two-tone model, etc. I will also be doing loco numbers and crests and lots(!) of wagon sides as well. Some trial and error will be required.

[rail450]

Laser printer would be ok - but ink decals prepared in water ?

[martink]

Laser printer would be ok - but ink decals prepared in water ?

Inkjet works fine, as long as you give the result a couple of coats of matte acrylic spray before cutting them out and soaking them. The only real issue with any of the DIY decals is you cannot print white, so have to use indirect means.

[dkightley]

The only real issue with any of the DIY decals is you cannot print white, so have to use indirect means.

You can get white decal sheets....which then allows you to have white.

On Brunel's bridge there's white lettering that I've successfully replicated using a decal by printing a grey that matches the background.

[martink]

Well, here is a first attempt with some simple paper stick-ons, and some crude private-owner coal wagon sides the same way. The coaches are almost good enough, even if the wagons aren't, so with a bit more care... Anyway, the next attempt will be with decals.

And Doug, given the small size of the goods wagons in particular, I will see about giving the white decal paper a try too.