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What to use for transfers

Postby ampy » Sun Nov 24, 2013 3:54 am

Could some one explain where you get, or how you print, and on what you print custom transfers, where can you bye product to star making my own, thanks peeps.... :shock:
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Re: What to use for transfers

Postby robertshrives » Sat Dec 14, 2013 2:42 pm

Hi I have had railtec do some BR arrows and numbers - very small but just about readable for class 24,24 and 37 locos.
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Re: What to use for transfers

Postby Slarge » Sat Dec 14, 2013 8:13 pm

I bought decal paper from these guys...
http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/.-Inkjet-Water-Slide-Decal-Paper_151.htm
It's available for inkjet and lazer ;)
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Re: What to use for transfers

Postby ConnorL » Sun Dec 15, 2013 4:39 am

I wonder if there is decal available for deskjet printers? I don't have inkjet or laser printer...
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Re: What to use for transfers

Postby nscaler69 » Sun Dec 15, 2013 1:01 pm

According to Wiki: "Deskjet is a brand name for inkjet printers manufactured by Hewlett-Packard." so use Inkjet decal paper. (I haven't tried it yet on my HP Deskjet.)
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Re: What to use for transfers

Postby jesse6669 » Sun Dec 22, 2013 6:34 pm

Im in the USA, and I buy my inkjet decal film from MicroMark. I get good results in general. I'm sure there are other suppliers in the UK and elsewhere with good printable inkjet film I'm sure.

Regarding print quality, a lot depends on your printer, but most of the photo-quality inkjets will do ok I'm sure. I've used Epson and Canon inkjet printers. I use high quality settings for "normal" paper on the current Epson. On my Canon Bubble Jet I used photo quality. Expect to do a little experimenting to dial in where the best quality is.

I print my design on the film, usually in strips across 8.5" (depending on the design, I may get 5-10 decals). After printing I cut off the strip printed and save the paper for future decals. After the new set has dried for 15 min or so, I lightly VERY LIGHTLY spray with Testor's Dullcote Lacquer. If you spray it on too thick, the Dullcote will dissolve the ink, and you'll possibly get halos or bleeding of the ink. Anyway, let that dry then apply 2 or 3 additional light coats to seal the ink. Let this dry for at least 30 min, or preferably overnight so there is no additional solvent to evaporate. Next, I take a page from our aircraft modelling friends and bring out the Future Floor Polish. Straight from the bottle, I just brush on a single coating over the decals. This clear acrylic coat makes the decals much more tough and workable, and also gives a nice gloss finish.

Remember that inkjets can't print white. So any colors printed on an inkjet assume the paper is white and blends the C/Y/M/K accordingly. One way to make decals, therefore, --other than plain black lettering-- is to use "white" decal paper, which actually has a white background. However, this decal paper is a bit thicker than the clear, so I don't much care for it in T-gauge.

My solution is to paint my models in white primer. I use Mr. Surfacer 1000, in a rattle can, which has the additional benefit of being a "spray on putty" with very fine granule mixture in it which also helps fill in any surface irregularities.

See a couple attachments of a white body with a clear "whole body" decal being applied. You can see on the wet decal how transparent it is, but against the white it will look normal.

-Jesse
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Re: What to use for transfers

Postby PolarExcess » Mon Dec 23, 2013 6:02 am

Jesse,

Thank you for posting the decal transfer information.

Where do you get the electronic train decal designs to print?


Sent from my rotary phone.
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Re: What to use for transfers

Postby jesse6669 » Thu Dec 26, 2013 8:40 pm

PolarExcess wrote:Where do you get the electronic train decal designs to print?


If you mean artwork, I make mine from photographs or other images I find on the web, then use photo editing software to edit it to work properly with the shell. They end up as regular .jpg files that I print.

Usually a nice broadside photo is the starting point. I use Photoscape software (it's free) but there are more powerful programs out there such as Photoshop. I typically invest at least a couple of hours creating the artwork. Images have to be adjusted to be the right color, reversed for each side, etc. etc. Then I print them out in draft quality on regular paper and cut out with a sharp X-acto knife and test fit to the actual model. It's definitely a skill that you have to work at!

I posted jpegs of decal art in the past, and "one of these days" I'll put them out again--but I don't have a website any more. I may be able to put some on the Blog site (not sure)... I'll check. I made up some decal artwork for the Class 66 in GBRF 66723 blue with the Chinook heli logo from this image:

Image

I need to clean it up a little (the windscreens needed work) but making up model might make a good topic for a Blog post if anyone is interested.

Jesse
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Re: What to use for transfers

Postby ConnorL » Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:13 pm

I have a question about decals, do they leave surfaces uneven or discolored? Example, you apply decals onto a train, but the decal doesn't match the paint finish?

Do you paint the train first, apply decal over it, then spray coating to make everything blend together?
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Re: What to use for transfers

Postby jesse6669 » Tue Jan 07, 2014 6:29 pm

Connor, I use acrylic paints (brushed) in matching colors to complete my models. Again, they start as solid white models, then decalled over with the clear decal stock inkjet printed with the design. I use decal solvent to get them to conform to the surface as much as possible (some creative cutting/splicing may be needed). In some cases, the decal actually helps give the surface a smoother appearance than the raw 3D printed surface.

After the decal is set, I then use acrylic paints to touch up around the edges, even over the decal. The paint should be thin enough that this isn't noticeable. A steady hand is necessary! An example, see the roof of the Caltrain MP36 in the picture is mostly black, but the side decals only go up to the radiator grilles; the roof was brush painted black, along with the underframe, etc.
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